visa versa. The highway, where visitors are greeted with fumes of oil and doctored gasoline, passes through the Sunni heartland, which saw the fiercest fighting between Saddam Hussein loyalists and American troops.
The dessert area is also known for random attacks by heavily armed bandits, apparently often hungry Iraqis desperate to make a living. American soldiers patrolling the area provide no encouragement. Many of these frustrated young men are confined to the border region with Jordan, saying there are not enough peacekeepers here.
"We are here to kill, not to patrol borders. They should send in the politicians," said one American. "It’s different when you receive written reports," added Specialist Dustin Owens (29) from Warsaw, Indiana, who wants Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld to visit him. He and his comrades have received daily reports about attacks against foreigners.
"This was where the bullets hit my car," confirmed Suleiman Andelus, a 52-year old Jordanian driver for a United States based international construction company, who is now safe in Amman. He was shot on his way to the Iraqi capital for refusing to hand over the $40,000 in cash he transported.
BULLETS HIT CAR
The words "where the bullets hit my car," echoed in the mind of an BosNewsLife reporters as the atmosphere in an old Iraqi taxi started to change. If possible, cars usually drive next to each other blocking all lanes to avoid being cut off by potential guns carrying thieves.
However this young taxi racer apparently enjoyed driving alone, while talking with his face turned to frightened passengers on the back seat. Yet, prayers seemed to have worked and the seemingly decades old American "limousine" broke down in Baghdad, not several life threatening, crime stricken, kilometres earlier.
Only shots and explosions welcoming visitors nearby Saddam Palace, now a U.S. military stronghold, spoiled the mood. But that was only part of the story. The return trip was still awaiting.
AN EASY RIDE?
But having survived shootings, a bomb blast close to their Petra hotel in Baghdad’s Christian district and the driving style of taxi drivers, the BosNewsLife reporter and his journalist wife Agnes R. Bos may have been forgiven for thinking that "God would give an easy ride" back to Jordan.
It took some negotiations and "eighty US Dollars," the preferred currency here, to find two men prepared to drive them to the neighboring Kingdom. To break the silence that usually accompanies driving through this hotbed of former regime hard-liners, a question came up: "By the way, are you Muslims?" "Yes, Sunni Muslims…" was the answer. The journalist couple felt trapped.
Some Sunni Muslims are seen as Saddam supporters, and are said to have kidnapped and even killed foreigners, including missionary workers, translators, American troops and U.S. civilians. To make matters worse, the driver started to go slowly instead of following the , nearly obligatory, as-fast-as-you-can-speed to avoid snipers or checkpoints from gunmen.
COLD WATER MIRACLE
"The motor broke down, sorry," said driver Ead Karik, as the foreigners watched anxiously through the flat yellow dessert land, with a sunset expected soon…It seemed a miracle that some cold water made the motor run again. But Karik, 33, had plans. Instead of rushing to Amman he drove them to his wife and three young children in his restive hometown Ramadi, about 100 long kilometres (62 miles) west of Baghdad.
The area was recently the scene of a ninety minute gun battle between U.S. forces and alleged Saddam fighters. Pictures of firing squats, angry dessert tribes armed with rifles and possible spears, penetrated the thoughts of this journalist couple. "Madam should calm down," Karik urged Agnes, while his other Muslim friends entered the house.
"Tea?". "No to Amman, please," she shouted. In broken English the family made soon clear there was nothing to worry about as they did not like Saddam Hussein. Yet, their life has become desperate, since American President George W. Bush declared an end to "major hostilities," three months earlier. More than 50 killed U.S. soldiers later, even the American military now admits that fighting continues amid a lack of security.
FAN DOESN’T WORK
The Sunni Muslims ANS met in Ramadi were no politicians. They dream off a better life, one day. Karik’s wife Naggem served tea in the dessert heat as their fan doesn’t work because of severe power shortages. "Can you write this down,?" her husband asked. Naggem tried to smile, and encourage the family. But it’s getting more difficult everyday.
Saddam Hussein, one of America’s most wanted men, has left behind a confused and war town nation. Yet his own eldest daughters, Raghad (34) and Rana (32) told reporters in Amman they still love their father. While he killed their husbands in 1996 after returning from exile in Jordan, they have "forgiven him."
Some Evangelical Christians in Iraq share their views. They want Saddam Hussein to visit the Baghdad Evangelical Alliance church, "to receive forgiveness for his sins." Back from what is sometimes called "the highway to hell" in seemingly more prosperous Jordan, it was easy to see why Iraqis were seeking a better life. Without hatred and revenge.
SHARING SOME JOY
However 33-year old Muslim Kadhum Alfatlawi from New York will soon travel over the dangerous road to Baghdad. He hasn’t seen several family members since he fled the nation during the 1991 Gulf War.
"Three years I lived in a inhuman refugee camp in the dessert of Saudi Arabia after a daring escape from Iraq. Finally I received U.S. citizenship and later became a computer programmer," he said. "I hope to give my parents a car from Jordan. And finally share with them some joy…"
